Istanbul in the 20th century was a fascinating place. It was a city both ecstatic and vibrant at times, and at others, brooding and tragic, in that perfect measure that makes up the eternal tapestry of life. Ara Güler, an artist of Armenian-Turkish descent—though he would likely smirk at being labeled as such—was there to capture the essence of Istanbul and its vibrant culture.
Universally regarded as one of the masters of photojournalism, Güler was born in Istanbul at a time of profound shifts in the fledgling Turkish state. With a career spanning seven decades, he witnessed and captured the spirit and changes that befell the iconic city, shaping its visual identity and earning the nickname "the Eye of Istanbul." Güler's penchant for observation, coupled with deep empathy for his subjects, is on full display at the ongoing survey at the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA), titled In the Footsteps of Ara Güler: Exploring the Photographer's Legacy. The exhibition retraces the artist's steps to reveal his captivating vision, explore his outstanding legacy, and put a stamp on his ongoing influence.
Ara Güler was born in Istanbul in 1928 to Armenian parents. His father was a pharmacy owner and a literati of the city's cinema circles of the time. The moving image didn't quite capture the young man's imagination as the still image would, and Güler turned to photojournalism at a very young age. The choice proved propitious. As early as the mid-1950s, he worked for leading magazines of the day. By the time of his death in 2018 (he was 90), Güler would come to be known as one of Turkey's most celebrated photographers and one of the very few people to have a café he frequented named after them.
Güler took pictures of Istanbul's architectural marvels, its bustling bazaars, and ordinary people walking the city streets. His style, distinguished by his masterful use of light and shadows, presents a unique blend of documentary photography and fine art where elegant aesthetics mingle with rich historical narratives. His black-and-white photographs of Istanbul's scenery evoke a sense of nostalgia, seizing those timeless moments that make up the eternity of life in the city. But it was the people of Istanbul that the artist was most interested in. Whether fishermen by the Bosphorus or street vendors setting up their shops for the day, Güler's portraits always conveyed a deep sense of humanity and compassion for his subjects.
Rather than an artist, Güler styled himself as a visual historian. He scoffed at anyone who'd dare dub him an art photographer, claiming instead that he was a mere witness to the rich history of the world. Nevertheless, his works are decidedly full of life, even at their most historical. Let the artist's own words serve as the example:
When I'm taking a picture of Hagia Sophia, what counts is the person passing by who stands for life.
Despite traveling around the world on press assignments to countries like Kenya, India, Pakistan and New Guinea, Güler would always be associated with his brooding, quizzical, melancholy black-and-white photographs of his native Istanbul. Over nearly seven decades, Turkey, and especially Istanbul, underwent outstanding changes that impacted their identity and character. Güler's early years were marked by post-WWII confusion, while rapid urbanization and cultural clashes dominated the city narrative in the later years of his career. In a broader sense, his Istanbul is both ancient and constantly evolving. Looking at his works created decades apart, one can glimpse a profound sense of grounded transformation that continues to affect the city.
But more than anything else, Güler's Istanbul is about the people living in it—the homeless and the merchants, the children and the elderly. He had an uncanny ability to connect with his subjects, capturing their vulnerability and strength in a single frame, often against the backdrop of some monumental piece of Ottoman architecture. The atmospheric photographs of children playing among the tombstones (1985), a kid herding sheep near the ancient remains of Aphrodisias (1958-1962), or silhouettes of fishermen set against the venerated scenery of Istanbul (1959)—these images provide us with an Istanbul that is both ancient and vibrant, brooding and vigorous, urging us to consider its visual history through the individuals living there.
Not only did he shape Istanbul's modern demeanor, but Güler also helped reshape its past. Literally, too, as he has a couple of accidental archaeological discoveries attached to his name, including the ancient city of Aphrodisias. Another example is his later-stage work titled Hero's End (1973-1975), the only documentary written and produced by Güler. It concerns the dismantling of Yavuz, an old WWI Ottoman-era warship, presented through original footage, photographs, and historical drawings. This film, which is on view in the exhibition, is a fascinating visual tour de force of a bygone era and serves as a perfect metaphor for Istanbul itself.
Orhan Pamuk, the famed writer and Güler's dear friend, wrote in a 2018 New York Times piece: "The crucial, defining characteristic of an Ara Güler photograph is the emotional correlation he draws between cityscapes and individuals."
Indeed, this correlation is the thread that connects most of the 155 works on view at MIA. Together, they spotlight the artist’s remarkable dedication to preserving and defining the cultural heritage of Istanbul through the daily forays of its people. More than just snapshots of their time, Güler's photographs tell a complete story of the city—its people, history, and character—which is why Güler remains a presence in his native Istanbul without whom any attempt to understand the fascinating city and its history would prove futile.
Echoing the Pamuk quote, another chapter of the artist's legacy is Güler's emotional correlation with his subjects. The MIA survey also showcases some of the most memorable photo portraits of the 20th century, where the Eye of Istanbul captured figures like Indira Gandhi, Yasser Arafat, Sophia Loren, Maria Callas, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, and Marc Chagall. All seemed to revel under Güler's attentive Leica, striking postures and expressions that defined their character. Compared to his Istanbul photographs, these portraits reveal a master at work and one of the most humanistic photographers of his generation.
Güler’s work transcends any easy categorization as documentary or fine art, moving between both while retaining a distinct sense of place and humanity. The exhibition highlights not only his mastery as a photographer but also his role as an observer of profound shifts in Istanbul’s landscape. In his images, we see a city through the eyes of someone deeply engaged with its rhythms, its architecture, and its people, a viewpoint that remains influential to this day.
The exhibition In the Footsteps of Ara Güler: Exploring the Photographer's Legacy will on view at Museum of Islamic Art in Doha, Qatar until November 9th, 2024.